Tuesday, December 7, 2010
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Arts & Crafts Made Modern
| Arts & Crafts Made Modern A new Craftsman kitchen celebrates the timeless ideals of honesty and utility by Debra Judge Silber When they found their brick foursquare in the mid-1980s, Ed and Kathy Friedman couldn’t believe their luck. They’d spent 10 years building a collection of Arts and Crafts furniture and decorative objects, and here was the perfect home in which to display it. The 1915 foursquare, with its built-in benches and bookcases, was as well preserved as if it had been locked in a time capsule. |  |  A well-crafted kitchen The expanded and remodeled kitchen in Ed and Kathy Friedman’s 1915 foursquare celebrates their love of the Arts and Crafts style. It is a huge improvement over the ill-fitting 1950s arrangement it replaced. An infusion of Prairie style gives the space a modern openness, creating a bright, comfortable, and roomy place for Ed and daughter Mara to collaborate on cooking chores. Inset photo: courtesy of Ed Friedman. |
An addition with a mission
“From the time we bought the house I was thinking about renovating the kitchen,” said Kathy. But bringing the warm, wood-trimmed character of the rest of the house into the kitchen without making it seem dark and tight was a daunting task. It was also clear that an addition would be needed. Not only was the existing kitchen too small, but the Friedmans wanted to take the opportunity to introduce other modern comforts -- air conditioning and an extra bathroom -- to the house. In the final plan, both air conditioning ductwork and a first-floor half-bath were worked into spaces that had been part of the old kitchen (see floor plan).
Given these considerations, the Friedmans chose not to recreate a Craftsman kitchen in all its authenticity but to reinvent it in a way that embraced the craftsmanship and spirit of those early 20th-century designers in a more contemporary space. To the Friedmans, that meant focusing on four themes central to the Arts and Crafts movement: simplicity, honesty, utility, and beauty.
At the same time, they realized they needed a strategy to bring their favorite style a bit closer to the bright, open kitchens of today. They found their answer with the help of Gerald Morosco, a Pittsburgh architect schooled in the Prairie style of Frank Lloyd Wright. Morosco helped the Friedmans discover how elements of this related but slightly more modern style would gently nudge an authentic Craftsman kitchen just far enough forward in time to accommodate a 21st-century family.
Credits To: http://www.taunton.com/inspiredhouse/pages/ih00016_01.asp
Credits to:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w31_BJXskC8&feature=related
How To Treat Mold in the Home
Here's some information on the health concerns related to mold exposure. You'll find some general guidelines on mold detection and cleanup, as well as removal of mold contaminated materials.
ABOUT MOLDWhat is it?
Molds are simple, microscopic organisms, found virtually everywhere, indoors and outdoors. Molds can be found on plants, foods, dry leaves, and other organic material. Molds are needed for breaking down dead material. Mold spores are very tiny and lightweight, and this allows them to travel through the air. Mold growths can often be seen in the form of discoloration, ranging from white to orange and from green to brown and black. When molds are present in large quantities, they can cause allergic symptoms similar to those caused by plant pollen.
Should I be concerned with mold in my home?
Yes, if the contamination is extensive. When airborne mold spores are present in large numbers, they can cause allergic reactions, asthma episodes, infections, and other respiratory problems for people. Exposure to high spore levels can cause the development of an allergy to the mold. Mold can also cause structural damage to your home. Similarly, when wood goes through a period of wetting, then drying, it can eventually warp and cause walls to crack or become structurally weak.
What does mold need to grow?
For mold to grow, it needs:
Yes, if there is moisture available to allow mold to thrive and multiply. The following are sources of indoor moisture that may cause problems:
If you see moisture condensation on the windows or walls, it is also possible that you have a combustion problem in your home. It is important to have sufficient fresh air available for fuel burning appliances, such as the furnace, water heater, stove/range, clothes dryer, as well as a fireplace. A shortage of air for these appliances can result in back drafting of dangerous gases such as carbon monoxide into the home. To prevent back drafting of air, you need either open vents or a ventilation system that brings fresh air into the home to replace air that is exhausted out.
Have your local utility company or a professional heating contractor inspect your fuel-burning appliances annually.
HEALTH EFFECTS
How am I exposed to indoor molds?
Mold is found everywhere, indoors and outdoors. It is common to find mold spores in the air of homes and growing on damp surfaces. Much of the mold found indoors comes from outdoor sources. Therefore, everyone is exposed to some mold on a daily basis without evident harm. Mold spores primarily cause health problems when they enter the air and are inhaled in large number. People can also be exposed to mold through skin contact and eating.
How much mold can make me sick?
It depends. For some people, a relatively small number of mold spores can cause health problems. For other people, it may take many more. The basic rule is, if you can see or smell it, take steps to eliminate the excess moisture, and to cleanup and remove the mold.
Who is at greater risk when exposed to mold?
Exposure to mold is not healthy for anyone inside buildings. It is important to quickly identify and correct any moisture sources before health problems develop. The following individuals appear to be at higher risk for adverse health effects of molds:
People with these special concerns should consult a physician if they are having health problems. What symptoms are common?
Allergic reactions may be the most common health problem of mold exposure. Typical symptoms reported (alone or in combination) include:
Allergic persons vary in their sensitivities to mold, both as to amount and type needed to cause reactions. In addition, certain types of molds can produce toxins, called mycotoxins, that the mold uses to inhibit or prevent the growth of other organisms. Mycotoxins are found in both living and dead mold spores. Materials permeated with mold need to be removed, even after they are disinfected with cleaning solutions. Allergic and toxic effects can remain in dead spores. Exposure to mycotoxins may present a greater hazard than that of allergenic or irritative molds. Mycotoxins have been found in homes, agricultural settings, food, and office buildings.
DETECTION OF MOLD
How can I tell if I have mold in my house?
If you can see mold, or if there is an earthy or musty odor, you can assume you have a mold problem. Allergic individuals may experience the symptoms listed above. Look for previous water damage. Visible mold growth is found underneath materials where water has damaged surfaces, or behind walls. Look for discoloration and leaching from plaster.
Should I test my home for mold?
The California Department of Health Services does not recommend testing as the first step to determine if you have a mold problem. Reliable sampling for mold can be expensive, and requires equipment not available to the general public. Residents of individual private homes must pay a contractor to carry out such sampling, as it is not usually done by public health agencies. Mold cleanup is usually considered one of the housekeeping tasks of the private citizen, along with roof and plumbing repairs, sweeping and house cleaning.
Another problem is that there are few available standards for judging what is an acceptable quantity of mold. In all locations, there is some outdoor levels of molds. If sampling is carried out, an outdoor air sample needs to be taken at the same time as the sample indoors, to provide a baseline measurement. Since the susceptibility of individuals varies so greatly, sampling is at best a general guide.
The simplest approach is: if you can see or smell mold, you have a problem. Once you know the problem exists, follow the procedure given next.
Unless the source of moisture is removed and the contaminated area is cleaned and disinfected, mold growth is likely to reoccur.
General Clean-up Procedures
Substances that are porous and can trap molds, such as paper, rags, wallboard, and rotten wood should be decontaminated and thrown out. Harder materials such as glass, plastic, or metal can be kept after they are cleaned and disinfected.
Ultimately, it is critical to remove the source of moisture first, before beginning remedial action, since mold growth will return shortly if an effected area becomes re-wetted.
Removal of moldy materials?
After fixing the moisture source and removing excess moisture, the cleanup can begin:
Soap clean-up
Before disinfecting contaminated areas, clean the areas to remove as much of the mold (and food it is growing on) as possible.
Can cleaning up mold be hazardous to my health?
Yes. Exposure to mold can occur during the cleaning stage. Mold counts are typically 10 to 1000 times higher than background levels during the cleaning of mold damaged materials. Take steps to protect your health during cleanup:
Can Air Duct Systems become Contaminated with Mold?
Yes. Air duct systems can become contaminated with mold. Duct syst/...can be constructed of bare sheet metal, sheet metal with an exterior fibrous glass insulation, sheet metal with an internal fibrous glass liner, or made entirely of fibrous glass. If your home's air duct system has had water damage, first identify the type of air duct construction that you have. Bare sheet metal systems, or sheet metal with exterior fibrous glass insulation, can be cleaned and disinfected.
If your system has sheet metal with an internal fibrous glass liner, or are made entirely of fibrous glass, the ductwork normally will need to be removed and discarded. Ductwork in difficult locations may have to be abandoned. If you have other questions, contact an air duct cleaning professional, or licensed contractor.
After I've cleaned everything as thoroughly as possible, can I still have mold odors?
Yes. It is possible that odors may persist. Continue to dry out the area and search for any hidden areas of mold. If the area continues to smell musty, you may have to re-clean the area again (follow the cleaning steps given in this sheet). Continue to dry and ventilate the area. Don't replace flooring or begin rebuilding until the area has dried completely.
How can further damage to my home be prevented?
Check regularly for the following:
Some air cleaners are designed to produce ozone. Ozone is a strong oxidizing agent used as a disinfectant in water and sometimes to eliminate odors. However, ozone is a known lung irritant. Symptoms associated with exposure include cough, chest pain, and eye, nose, and throat irritation. Ozone generators have been shown to generate indoor levels above the safe limit. Furthermore, it has been demonstrated that ozone is not effective in controlling molds and fungi, even at high concentrations far above safe health levels. Also, ozone may damage materials in the home. For these reasons, the California Department of Health Services strongly recommends that you do not use an ozone air cleaner in any occupied residential space.
Credits to: http://www.homeplaninfo.com/articles/how-to-treat-mold-in-the-home.aspx
ABOUT MOLDWhat is it?
Molds are simple, microscopic organisms, found virtually everywhere, indoors and outdoors. Molds can be found on plants, foods, dry leaves, and other organic material. Molds are needed for breaking down dead material. Mold spores are very tiny and lightweight, and this allows them to travel through the air. Mold growths can often be seen in the form of discoloration, ranging from white to orange and from green to brown and black. When molds are present in large quantities, they can cause allergic symptoms similar to those caused by plant pollen.
Should I be concerned with mold in my home?
Yes, if the contamination is extensive. When airborne mold spores are present in large numbers, they can cause allergic reactions, asthma episodes, infections, and other respiratory problems for people. Exposure to high spore levels can cause the development of an allergy to the mold. Mold can also cause structural damage to your home. Similarly, when wood goes through a period of wetting, then drying, it can eventually warp and cause walls to crack or become structurally weak.
What does mold need to grow?
For mold to grow, it needs:
- food sources - such as leaves, wood, paper, or dirt
- a source of moisture
- a place to grow
Yes, if there is moisture available to allow mold to thrive and multiply. The following are sources of indoor moisture that may cause problems:
- flooding
- backed-up sewers
- leaky roofs
- humidifiers
- mud or ice dams
- damp basement or crawl spaces
- constant plumbing leaks
- house plants - watering can generate large amounts of moisture
- steam from cooking
- shower/bath steam and leaks
- wet clothes on indoor drying lines
- clothes dryers vented indoors
- combustion appliances (e.g. stoves) not exhausted to the outdoors
If you see moisture condensation on the windows or walls, it is also possible that you have a combustion problem in your home. It is important to have sufficient fresh air available for fuel burning appliances, such as the furnace, water heater, stove/range, clothes dryer, as well as a fireplace. A shortage of air for these appliances can result in back drafting of dangerous gases such as carbon monoxide into the home. To prevent back drafting of air, you need either open vents or a ventilation system that brings fresh air into the home to replace air that is exhausted out.
Have your local utility company or a professional heating contractor inspect your fuel-burning appliances annually.
HEALTH EFFECTS
How am I exposed to indoor molds?
Mold is found everywhere, indoors and outdoors. It is common to find mold spores in the air of homes and growing on damp surfaces. Much of the mold found indoors comes from outdoor sources. Therefore, everyone is exposed to some mold on a daily basis without evident harm. Mold spores primarily cause health problems when they enter the air and are inhaled in large number. People can also be exposed to mold through skin contact and eating.
How much mold can make me sick?
It depends. For some people, a relatively small number of mold spores can cause health problems. For other people, it may take many more. The basic rule is, if you can see or smell it, take steps to eliminate the excess moisture, and to cleanup and remove the mold.
Who is at greater risk when exposed to mold?
Exposure to mold is not healthy for anyone inside buildings. It is important to quickly identify and correct any moisture sources before health problems develop. The following individuals appear to be at higher risk for adverse health effects of molds:
- Infants and children
- Elderly
- Immune compromised patients (people with HIV infection, cancer chemotherapy, liver disease, etc.)
People with these special concerns should consult a physician if they are having health problems. What symptoms are common?
Allergic reactions may be the most common health problem of mold exposure. Typical symptoms reported (alone or in combination) include:
- respiratory problems, such as wheezing, and difficulty in breathing
- nasal and sinus congestion
- eyes-burning, watery, reddened, blurry vision, light sensitivity
- dry, hacking cough
- sore throat
- nose and throat irritation
- shortness of breath
- skin irritation
- central nervous system problems (constant headaches, memory problems, and mood changes)
- aches and pains
- possible fever
Allergic persons vary in their sensitivities to mold, both as to amount and type needed to cause reactions. In addition, certain types of molds can produce toxins, called mycotoxins, that the mold uses to inhibit or prevent the growth of other organisms. Mycotoxins are found in both living and dead mold spores. Materials permeated with mold need to be removed, even after they are disinfected with cleaning solutions. Allergic and toxic effects can remain in dead spores. Exposure to mycotoxins may present a greater hazard than that of allergenic or irritative molds. Mycotoxins have been found in homes, agricultural settings, food, and office buildings.
DETECTION OF MOLD
How can I tell if I have mold in my house?
If you can see mold, or if there is an earthy or musty odor, you can assume you have a mold problem. Allergic individuals may experience the symptoms listed above. Look for previous water damage. Visible mold growth is found underneath materials where water has damaged surfaces, or behind walls. Look for discoloration and leaching from plaster.
Should I test my home for mold?
The California Department of Health Services does not recommend testing as the first step to determine if you have a mold problem. Reliable sampling for mold can be expensive, and requires equipment not available to the general public. Residents of individual private homes must pay a contractor to carry out such sampling, as it is not usually done by public health agencies. Mold cleanup is usually considered one of the housekeeping tasks of the private citizen, along with roof and plumbing repairs, sweeping and house cleaning.
Another problem is that there are few available standards for judging what is an acceptable quantity of mold. In all locations, there is some outdoor levels of molds. If sampling is carried out, an outdoor air sample needs to be taken at the same time as the sample indoors, to provide a baseline measurement. Since the susceptibility of individuals varies so greatly, sampling is at best a general guide.
The simplest approach is: if you can see or smell mold, you have a problem. Once you know the problem exists, follow the procedure given next.
Unless the source of moisture is removed and the contaminated area is cleaned and disinfected, mold growth is likely to reoccur.
General Clean-up Procedures
- Identify and correct the moisture source
- Clean, disinfect, and dry the moldy area
- Bag and dispose any material that has moldy residues, such as rags, paper, leaves, or debris.
Substances that are porous and can trap molds, such as paper, rags, wallboard, and rotten wood should be decontaminated and thrown out. Harder materials such as glass, plastic, or metal can be kept after they are cleaned and disinfected.
Ultimately, it is critical to remove the source of moisture first, before beginning remedial action, since mold growth will return shortly if an effected area becomes re-wetted.
Removal of moldy materials?
After fixing the moisture source and removing excess moisture, the cleanup can begin:
- Wear gloves when handling moldy materials
- Remove porous materials (examples: ceiling tiles, sheetrock, carpeting, wood products)
- Carpeting can be a difficult problem - drying does not remove the dead spores. If there is heavy mold, disposal of the carpet should be considered
- Bag and discard the moldy substances
- Allow the area to dry 2 or 3 days
- If flooded, remove all sheetrock to at least 12 inches above the high water mark. Visually inspect the wall interior and remove any other intrusive molds. (This step may have to be carried out by a licensed contractor).
Soap clean-up
Before disinfecting contaminated areas, clean the areas to remove as much of the mold (and food it is growing on) as possible.
- Wear gloves when doing this cleanup
- Use a non-ammonia soap or detergent, or a commercial cleaner, in hot water, and scrub the entire area affected by the mold
- Use a stiff brush or cleaning pad on block walls or uneven surfaces
- Rinse clean with water. A wet/dry vacuum is handy for this.
- Wear gloves when using disinfectants
- After thorough cleaning and rinsing, disinfect the area with a solution of 10% household bleach (e.g., 1 and a half cup bleach per gallon of water). Using bleach straight from the bottle will not be more effective
- Never mix bleach with Ammonia - the fumes are toxic
- For spraying exterior large areas, a garden hose and nozzle can be used
- When disinfecting a large structure, make sure the entire surface is wetted (floors, joists, and posts)
- Avoid excessive amounts of runoff or standing bleach
- Let disinfecting areas dry naturally overnight - this extended time is important to kill all the mold.
Can cleaning up mold be hazardous to my health?
Yes. Exposure to mold can occur during the cleaning stage. Mold counts are typically 10 to 1000 times higher than background levels during the cleaning of mold damaged materials. Take steps to protect your health during cleanup:
- When handling or cleaning moldy materials, consider using a mask or respirator to protect you from breathing airborne spores. Respirators can be purchased from hardware stores; select one for particle removal (sometimes referred to as a N95 or TC-21C particulate respirator). Respirators are not as effective removing bleach fumes, so minimize your exposure when using bleach or other disinfectants.
- Wear protective clothing that is easily cleaned or discarded
- Use rubber gloves
- Try cleaning a small test patch of mold first. If you feel that this adversely affected your health, you should consider paying a licensed contractor or professional to carry out the work
- Ask family members or bystanders to leave areas when being cleaned.
- Work over short time spans and rest in a fresh air location.
- Air your house out well during after the work
Can Air Duct Systems become Contaminated with Mold?
Yes. Air duct systems can become contaminated with mold. Duct syst/...can be constructed of bare sheet metal, sheet metal with an exterior fibrous glass insulation, sheet metal with an internal fibrous glass liner, or made entirely of fibrous glass. If your home's air duct system has had water damage, first identify the type of air duct construction that you have. Bare sheet metal systems, or sheet metal with exterior fibrous glass insulation, can be cleaned and disinfected.
If your system has sheet metal with an internal fibrous glass liner, or are made entirely of fibrous glass, the ductwork normally will need to be removed and discarded. Ductwork in difficult locations may have to be abandoned. If you have other questions, contact an air duct cleaning professional, or licensed contractor.
After I've cleaned everything as thoroughly as possible, can I still have mold odors?
Yes. It is possible that odors may persist. Continue to dry out the area and search for any hidden areas of mold. If the area continues to smell musty, you may have to re-clean the area again (follow the cleaning steps given in this sheet). Continue to dry and ventilate the area. Don't replace flooring or begin rebuilding until the area has dried completely.
How can further damage to my home be prevented?
Check regularly for the following:
- moisture condensation on windows
- cracking of plasterboard
- drywall tape loosening
- wood warping
- musty odor
Some air cleaners are designed to produce ozone. Ozone is a strong oxidizing agent used as a disinfectant in water and sometimes to eliminate odors. However, ozone is a known lung irritant. Symptoms associated with exposure include cough, chest pain, and eye, nose, and throat irritation. Ozone generators have been shown to generate indoor levels above the safe limit. Furthermore, it has been demonstrated that ozone is not effective in controlling molds and fungi, even at high concentrations far above safe health levels. Also, ozone may damage materials in the home. For these reasons, the California Department of Health Services strongly recommends that you do not use an ozone air cleaner in any occupied residential space.
Credits to: http://www.homeplaninfo.com/articles/how-to-treat-mold-in-the-home.aspx
Taking a Basements to a New Level
Extending your living space downstairs -- to the basement -- doesn't have to mean lowering your expectations. Proper lighting, well-designed architectural details, vibrant colors, and comforts typically associated with above-grade rooms can help transform that forbidding space below into a place where you and your family want to spend time. True, there are many challenges inherent in remodeling lower levels -- low ceilings, dampness, and poor lighting, coupled with the need to preserve storage area and utility access. But all of these can be overcome with good design, appropriate materials, and a bit of ingenuity.
Plan for now and for the future
Most primary living areas -- kitchen, living room, dining room -- have a predetermined function. Reclaiming a basement is like discovering real estate you didn't know you owned. It's easy for your plans to overwhelm both you and the space.
Start by assessing your needs. An extra bedroom? A home entertainment area? An exercise space? An office? Then ask yourself what that use will require. Insulation to muffle the sound of teenagers and their electronic games? A refrigerator or sink for serving food and drinks?
Establishing different zones within a large open room is one approach that makes the most of light and air movement. But structural considerations may dictate your best layout. For example, in remodeling the basement of Jessica and David Aronoff's Newton, Mass., home, LDa Architects of Cambridge worked with the existing structure, incorporating support columns into a glass-block wall.
It's a good idea also to consider what function the space may fill in coming years. Today's playroom may later serve as teen hangout, and still later as an apartment for an elderly relative or returning college grad. If you foresee the need for a bathroom, bringing in plumbing at the time of the initial renovation will prove more cost-effective than deciding down the road. Keep in mind also that some uses, such as bedrooms, must meet specific code requirements. Take time to develop a long-range plan and discuss it with your contractor and, if need be, building inspector, to be sure any changes to the space won't limit adaptations later on.
The world beneath your feet Smart strategies, from layered lighting to warm, comfortable furnishings, can make a lower level as pleasant as those above.
Credits To: http://www.taunton.com/inspiredhouse/pages/ih00010_01.asp
Plan for now and for the future
Most primary living areas -- kitchen, living room, dining room -- have a predetermined function. Reclaiming a basement is like discovering real estate you didn't know you owned. It's easy for your plans to overwhelm both you and the space.
Start by assessing your needs. An extra bedroom? A home entertainment area? An exercise space? An office? Then ask yourself what that use will require. Insulation to muffle the sound of teenagers and their electronic games? A refrigerator or sink for serving food and drinks?
 | Letting light flow An open stairway, glass block walls, and a French door to an office area let light disperse naturally throughout the Aronoffs' basement. |
Establishing different zones within a large open room is one approach that makes the most of light and air movement. But structural considerations may dictate your best layout. For example, in remodeling the basement of Jessica and David Aronoff's Newton, Mass., home, LDa Architects of Cambridge worked with the existing structure, incorporating support columns into a glass-block wall.
It's a good idea also to consider what function the space may fill in coming years. Today's playroom may later serve as teen hangout, and still later as an apartment for an elderly relative or returning college grad. If you foresee the need for a bathroom, bringing in plumbing at the time of the initial renovation will prove more cost-effective than deciding down the road. Keep in mind also that some uses, such as bedrooms, must meet specific code requirements. Take time to develop a long-range plan and discuss it with your contractor and, if need be, building inspector, to be sure any changes to the space won't limit adaptations later on.
The world beneath your feet Smart strategies, from layered lighting to warm, comfortable furnishings, can make a lower level as pleasant as those above.
Credits To: http://www.taunton.com/inspiredhouse/pages/ih00010_01.asp
Kitchen Collaboration
It's now been more than two years since my husband, Sean, and I completed our kitchen renovation. We love the room, and friends still rave about the transformation. The scope of our project was vast: We'd decided to turn a circa-1920 two-flat house in San Francisco into a single-family home. We knew that to have the open kitchen we wanted, we'd have to reconfigure the space on the first floor, a daunting task.
We were lucky to find the perfect team to make our vision for the home become real. Our contractor, Peter Friel, was highly recommended by friends, and Peter, in turn, referred us to Andre Rothblatt, an architect with whom he had worked successfully before.
They complemented each another—Peter liked older, classic home styles, while Andre leaned toward more contemporary designs—and I liked hearing both points of view. They really listened to me, too, and in the end, we worked very well together (see Team Work).
A mix of styles and some clever ideas
We decided to open up the back of the house by turning three small rooms into one big one—even if it did mean putting in a T-shaped steel beam to replace bearing walls (see Removing Walls Safely).
Once the space was opened up, there were a million design decisions to make. When I think of all the considerations that went into our kitchen project, I’m reminded of the many ways we all contributed to the final product: a comfortable, practical space my family enjoys every day. Here are just a few of them:
Family space The light walls, cabinets, and
backsplash are a cheerful contrast to the dark
granite countertop.
Cabinetry and wall colors – We wanted the space to be cheerful, so we chose a soft butter-yellow for the walls. I preferred Shaker-style cabinets, but Peter suggested a simple style that better fit our budget. I wanted glass doors but didn’t want to see through them, so I was pleased when we found cabinets with etched glass.
Flooring choices – Andre made a strong case for the “latest” in linoleum, but I really wanted wood floors. Peter convinced us that a mahogany inlay around the perimeter would look good and blend in with the original oak in other parts of the house. I was worried that it would seem out of place next to the plain floors in the hall and dining room, but he was right. It looks beautiful.
Working nook – Andre designed this highly functional space off the kitchen. He planned the cabinet layout in the desk area with input from me (I had seen something similar in a magazine) and worked in the wine racks. The nook serves many purposes, from work to storage, and it even improves traffic flow during parties by making a circular path through the kitchen.
Countertops of two materials – Andre recommended using both butcher block and stone on the countertops, something he’d recently done on another project. It was not only distinctive, but the butcher block is wonderfully usable. It was a bit of a headache initially to maintain—mineral oil is the key—and one side warped early on and needed to be replaced, but as an avid cook, I would not trade in my work and cutting surfaces for anything.
A family-friendly space Claudine loves having a spacious kitchen island. From this central spot, she can keep an eye on activities in the family room and beyond.
The stone surface was more difficult to decide on. While I favored the practicality and durability of granite, Andre was excited about a more interesting surface: limestone. I was almost convinced to go with it when a salesperson told me it could stain. Our two small children immediately made it a non-option for me, so I had to let Andre down gently. I later decided on a dark granite flecked with lighter highlights as the best contrast to the light butcher block and white cabinets.
And two heights – Andre recommended varying the countertop heights as well to make working more comfortable. We used the standard 36-inch height for the granite and dropped the butcher-block surfaces by a couple of inches. I think any other kitchen will be a letdown after having such a wonderful custom feature.
I agreed to Andre’s suggestion for a simple squared-off molding on the counters, despite Peter’s delicately voiced concerns. Later, I thought it was too contemporary for the kitchen, so I asked Peter to replace some of it with a more ornate molding, and the combination adds another interesting touch to the kitchen.
Materials with style The multicolor tiles, intricate moldings, and brushed-nickel hardware are details that contribute to the successful look of the kitchen.
Stainless, please – I’d always wanted professional-looking stainless-steel appliances, even if they didn’t seem in keeping with the older-style cabinets and wainscoting. I figured they would be a worthwhile investment, and if they became dated down the road, they’d be the easiest thing to switch out.
Credits to: http://www.taunton.com/inspiredhouse/pages/ih00008_01.asp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DNb1TqE9j4
We were lucky to find the perfect team to make our vision for the home become real. Our contractor, Peter Friel, was highly recommended by friends, and Peter, in turn, referred us to Andre Rothblatt, an architect with whom he had worked successfully before.
They complemented each another—Peter liked older, classic home styles, while Andre leaned toward more contemporary designs—and I liked hearing both points of view. They really listened to me, too, and in the end, we worked very well together (see Team Work).
A mix of styles and some clever ideas
We decided to open up the back of the house by turning three small rooms into one big one—even if it did mean putting in a T-shaped steel beam to replace bearing walls (see Removing Walls Safely).
Once the space was opened up, there were a million design decisions to make. When I think of all the considerations that went into our kitchen project, I’m reminded of the many ways we all contributed to the final product: a comfortable, practical space my family enjoys every day. Here are just a few of them:
Family space The light walls, cabinets, and
backsplash are a cheerful contrast to the dark
granite countertop.
Cabinetry and wall colors – We wanted the space to be cheerful, so we chose a soft butter-yellow for the walls. I preferred Shaker-style cabinets, but Peter suggested a simple style that better fit our budget. I wanted glass doors but didn’t want to see through them, so I was pleased when we found cabinets with etched glass.
Flooring choices – Andre made a strong case for the “latest” in linoleum, but I really wanted wood floors. Peter convinced us that a mahogany inlay around the perimeter would look good and blend in with the original oak in other parts of the house. I was worried that it would seem out of place next to the plain floors in the hall and dining room, but he was right. It looks beautiful.
Working nook – Andre designed this highly functional space off the kitchen. He planned the cabinet layout in the desk area with input from me (I had seen something similar in a magazine) and worked in the wine racks. The nook serves many purposes, from work to storage, and it even improves traffic flow during parties by making a circular path through the kitchen.
 | The nook does double duty It's a great place to work, but the Ryans needed wine storage, too, and a better traffic pattern when they entertained. So the nook was widened to accommodate wine racks, and it was opened to the back hall as well as to the kitchen. |
Countertops of two materials – Andre recommended using both butcher block and stone on the countertops, something he’d recently done on another project. It was not only distinctive, but the butcher block is wonderfully usable. It was a bit of a headache initially to maintain—mineral oil is the key—and one side warped early on and needed to be replaced, but as an avid cook, I would not trade in my work and cutting surfaces for anything.
A family-friendly space Claudine loves having a spacious kitchen island. From this central spot, she can keep an eye on activities in the family room and beyond.
The stone surface was more difficult to decide on. While I favored the practicality and durability of granite, Andre was excited about a more interesting surface: limestone. I was almost convinced to go with it when a salesperson told me it could stain. Our two small children immediately made it a non-option for me, so I had to let Andre down gently. I later decided on a dark granite flecked with lighter highlights as the best contrast to the light butcher block and white cabinets.
 | At work in the new kitchen Claudine and her boys choose cookie cutters for their favorite recipe. |
And two heights – Andre recommended varying the countertop heights as well to make working more comfortable. We used the standard 36-inch height for the granite and dropped the butcher-block surfaces by a couple of inches. I think any other kitchen will be a letdown after having such a wonderful custom feature.
I agreed to Andre’s suggestion for a simple squared-off molding on the counters, despite Peter’s delicately voiced concerns. Later, I thought it was too contemporary for the kitchen, so I asked Peter to replace some of it with a more ornate molding, and the combination adds another interesting touch to the kitchen.
Materials with style The multicolor tiles, intricate moldings, and brushed-nickel hardware are details that contribute to the successful look of the kitchen.
Stainless, please – I’d always wanted professional-looking stainless-steel appliances, even if they didn’t seem in keeping with the older-style cabinets and wainscoting. I figured they would be a worthwhile investment, and if they became dated down the road, they’d be the easiest thing to switch out.
Credits to: http://www.taunton.com/inspiredhouse/pages/ih00008_01.asp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DNb1TqE9j4
A Change of Space
| By switching rooms and recycling vintage elements, one couple transforms their kitchen on a tight budget by Liz Strianese Sometimes you just know you'd be happy in a house, even when your entire extended family cringes looking at photographs of the mess you're considering buying. That's how it was with our fixer-upper. | |  Kitchen and dining room traded places The result was an efficient U-shaped kitchen tucked into a corner, making room for traffic to flow into the new dining room. |
But it was just what my husband, Tom, and I were looking for: a house to resuscitate and bring back to its former glory. We bought the house, and after all the major structural and messy work was completed and the floors were refinished, we moved in. All the rooms still needed work, but we thought it made sense to turn to the kitchen first.
Simple plans for a difficult room
We both love to cook and wanted a beautiful, efficient kitchen that met our agreed-upon priorities: a sink facing a window that ideally looked out onto the garden; all the modern conveniences, including a state-of-the-art refrigerator, stove, and dishwasher; and glass-faced upper cabinets to display our collection of vintage dishes -- we're antiques dealers obsessed with dinnerware.
But the tiny kitchen at the back of the house was not going to work. There were broken pipes, years of grease, and squirrels in residence. Adding insult to injury, the layout was completely dysfunctional: Old appliances were crammed into the small room, blocking windows and light. Three doorways into the room and one built-in floor-to-ceiling cabinet left us with wall space in approximately 14-inch increments.
We drew up a series of unsuccessful floor plans. Upper cabinets wouldn"t work because of the intermittent wall space. And we couldn't plan for a long, continuous work surface because the windows started 2 feet above the floor, which would put counters at knee height. We grappled with closing up windows or blowing out walls. But we had enough major reconstruction to do without adding more. We were stumped.
Credits to: http://www.taunton.com/inspiredhouse/pages/ih00019_01.asp
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